Six fits, in order#
Skinny. The 510 is the one — sits just below the waist and stays close all the way down. Genuinely thin builds only, roughly a 27 to 29 waist. The 519 exists, is even narrower, and is rare for good reason.
Slim. The 511 is close-cut without being restrictive, and it’s the best pick if you’re fit but slight and want to move. The 513 — slim straight — gives more room through the waist and thigh with a gentler taper, which is the answer for anyone in shape but built thicker through the seat and legs. The 512 is a slim taper: same as the 511 up top, about an inch and a half narrower at the ankle.
Tapered. The 502 is the quiet star of the whole range. It’s a modernised 501 with more thigh room and a tapered leg, in more fabrics than anything else, and it’s the one you can wear with a sport coat and proper shoes without it looking odd.
Straight. The 501 is the original, and everything else is a variation on it or on the 510. Straight from thigh to hem — which now reads a little loose — with the button fly, the widest range of waists and washes, plus shrink-to-fit, big and tall, and the 1984 and 1993 reissues. Nearby: the 505 has roomier thighs, the 514 sits lower with a zip fly, the 5501 and 5509 run more relaxed.
Boot cut. The 517 is the original cowboy jean — pure cotton, straight to the knee, then opening out to clear a boot. The 527 is the modern one, a little stretch, sitting slightly lower, and more comfortable for it.
Relaxed and loose. These are two different things. Relaxed means room through hips, waist, and upper leg. Loose means room down the legs while staying closer up top. The 541 is the athletic fit — space for a bigger seat and thick thighs while still fitting your actual waist, which is the problem most gym-built men are trying to solve. The 550 has been running since 1985 and is affectionately known as the dad jean. The 5509 is a more modern relaxed cut, lower, with a wider leg opening.
Pick by your build, not by the number#
- Thin → 510 or 511
- Fit but husky → 513
- One versatile everyday pair → 502
- The timeless original → 501
- Wearing boots → 517 or 527
- Athletic seat and thighs → 541
- Weekend comfort → 550
Anyone can wear any of them. It’s just that one of them is already the shape you are.
Stop being precious about stretch#
Most Levi’s now run cotton with one per cent or so of elastane, and some blends go as far as a quarter polyester. For a close-fitting cut this is an improvement, not a compromise — it’s what stops a slim jean from being a stiff jean.
One practical consequence: your waist size can differ between models, because the stretch differs. The number on the label is not the number on your body. Try them on, or at least check the fabric before ordering the size you assume you are.
On washes#
Dark indigo, black, or grey will go with more of your wardrobe than anything else and look deliberate rather than casual. Light and medium washes are fine and they’re a narrower tool.
A few small things to try:
- Work out which of the six fits you’re actually in before shopping.
- Try the 502 if you’ve only ever worn 501s.
- Ignore your usual waist number across two different models.
- Buy dark before you buy another light pair.
